WALK THE WALK
Julian Clapp's fascinating 90-minute Brighton Rock Walk (07941 256148/brightoncitywalks.com) traces locations from both novel and films.

Although Eastbourne stood in for director Rowan Joffe's Palace Pier, Julian's tour uncovers gang chase locations in The Lanes and Hove's rainbow-coloured beach huts where Helen Mirren and John Hurt were filmed. You can also view Quadrophenia alleyway, the tiny sex-scene alley from the Mods and Rockers movie of the same name. Tours from £6.

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GET THE GEAR
Jump The Gun on Gardner Street is the perfect place for that stylish Mod-about-town look: mohair suits, vintage Ben Sherman, Fred Perry favourites and snappy ties. Note the "hippies use side door" sign.

Laste, a chic little cobblers on Bond Street, is ideal for completing the Mod look. Discover handmade retro w inklepickers and groovy takes on Chelsea boots.

In the heart of North Laine (Brighton's boho district) Vintage Magazine Co in Kensington Gardens is great for Beano joke-trick sets, James Dean posters, psychedelic badges, Quadrophenia bags and Jackie O sunglasses. Then groove over to The Wax Factor on Trafalgar Street for collectors' vinyl: Jimi Hendrix, Manfred Mann and The A nimals.

Stocked with enough gear for a Sixties film set Snoopers Paradise, also in Kensington Gardens, is an Aladdin's cave of retro-rich stalls. Stop by for Sindy dolls, vintage parkas, Formica furniture and Rockers' clobber.

Peckish? Caramella just up the road will fix your nostalgia cravings.

A n 89p pick 'n' mix of tooth-rotting treats includes Sherbet Dips, Jazzles, Flying Saucers and, of course, Brighton rock.

MUNCH BUNCH
If that gets you in the mood for a bite to eat then you can dine on everything from oysters, crab and lobster to perfectly cooked scallops and sea bass at English's Seafood Restaurant And Oyster Bar (01273 327 980/englishs.co.uk) on East Street.

This time-warp venue has saucy Parisian murals, a bordello atmosphere and burgundy velvet banquettes. A favourite in the Sixties of Larry Olivier, Vivien Leigh and Omar Sharif, it still attracts luvvies. Set menu from £10.

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The Regency Restaurant (01273 325 014/theregencyrestaurant.co.uk) on Kings Road is a West Pier-facing treat reckoned to serve the best fish and chips and mixed grills in town.

This family-run restaurant is heaving, so it's worth booking.

Willow pattern meets Windsor chairs in The Mock Turtle in Pool Valley, a quaint three-storey tea room. Far from being a grannymagnet, it attracts an eclectic crowd of students, arty types and local families. It's the mish-mash of dainty crockery, homemade cakes and retro snacks (Welsh rarebit, sardines on toast).

On a sunny weekend you'll get big brass bands and a great view of the Pavilion from the Pavilion Gardens Café. Order a mug of tea and a rock cake and eavesdrop on Brightonians reminiscing about the good old days.

Sadly, Brighton's late-night coffee bars are a thing of the past but the feel of those Sixties dives is authentically reconstructed in Rock Ola on Tidy Street. Enjoy their freeplay jukebox with sounds from the era, good snacks and quirky diner-style furnishings.

PUBS AND CLUBS
Reputedly Graham Greene's favourite haunt, The Cricketers in Black Lion Street, is the oldest pub in Brighton with gorgeous plush salons, a "Greene Room" and a cosy atmosphere. For something more camp, head for the Regency Tavern on Russell Square, adorned with chandelier, grand piano, glitterball and gilded cherubs. A venue that's popular with locals.

The Basketmakers on Gloucester Road is one of Brighton's best-loved venues.

Every wall is adorned with old tobacco tins, enamel signs, postcards and photos. The food is good and the atmosphere rocks on weekend nights.

Bop the night away at Volks Tavern on Madeira Drive, a slouchy scooter café by day and vibey hangout come sundown. This long-standing, low-key club offers a groovy music and events programme spanning reggae, burlesque and bands.

TIME TO CRASH
Check into the Modrophenia bedroom at funky Hotel Pelirocco in Regency Square (01273 327 055/ hotelpelirocco.co.uk) where purple Pop-Art décor meets orange plastic bucket chairs.

Prefer Diana Dors? The Pin Up Parlour is pure rhinestone kitsch.

Or how about the satiny Motown look of Soul Supreme with vintage record player and mike. Doubles from £90 (two sharing), B&B.

Classy kitsch is the theme at Snooze on St George's Terrace (01273 605 797/snoozebrighton.com), a Kemp Town B&B whose six guest rooms reflect the ex-DJ owner's love of flea market finds.

Check out Room 5 for authentic Sixties décor: "Blue Lady" paintings and whirly wallpaper.

The breakfast room with authentic china, Formica furniture and cutlery is time-warp perfection. Doubles from £65 (two sharing), B&B.

GETTING THERE: Visit Brighton: 01273 290337/visitbrighton.com