Relax, unwind and enjoy getting in touch with the glory of nature on Florida’s Southern Gulf Coast, says RUTH BRINDLE

Getting  back to nature is the perfect way to chill out in Florida’s Southern Gulf Coast.

And Sanibel, a magical horseshoe-shaped island, has plenty of nature to get back to.

It boasts fine, white, sandy beaches and laidback charm.

And between May and October sea turtles come up on to those beaches at night to lay their eggs.

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The nests, all along the beaches of Sanibel and Fort Myers on the ­mainland, are looked after by a team of volunteers before the ­hatchlings emerge two months later and scurry down to the sea.

Eve Haverfield, founder of the charity Turtle Time, allowed me to release two baby turtles that had been left behind.

They wriggled frantically in my hand and it was tear-jerking stuff to see them waddle off into the surf on their uncertain life adventure.

Sanibel, along with its sister island Captiva, is a seashell utopia. There’s even a special name for those who assume the shell-hunting position along the beach – the Sanibel stoop.
The island is home to one of the few dedicated shell museums in the world.

There you can sort your conch from your cockle and find out how the Calusa Indians, the ­island’s native American inhabitants, survived on seafood, leaving huge shell mounds as a reminder of their time here.

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Relaxing
By law you’re not allowed to collect live shells or the beautiful sand dollars – but it’s easy to get hooked on the search for the molluscs’ former homes.

It’s relaxing, too, as you saunter and sift your way along the waterline at low tide.

I stayed at the West Wind Inn, right on the beach. It was perfect for a chill-out and with its own small kitchen it helped us save money on eating out.

Just up the road, the J.N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge, with 2,800 acres and 220 species of birds, embodies the spirit of Sanibel.

It is named after an American cartoonist who successfully blocked development of this mangrove forest in the 1940s.

It’s well worth taking a tour but this is a swamp, so remember to take your insect spray.
A guided kayak adventure allows you to get up close and personal with birds, lizards and even manatees.

After I was reassured there was no 360-degree underwater roll involved, I sat back to enjoy myself, skimming across the shallow water.

Those with experience can follow the markers and navigate along the serene backwaters of the 190-mile Great Calusa Blueway.

At one point we made our way into a mangrove tunnel, spotting tree crabs and egrets, herons and wading birds.

We’d heard fish jumping as we paddled along, so next day we decided to catch them with the help of Captain Mike Smith.

His knowledge of the waters enabled us to pull in fish after fish, with squeals of delight at each bite from bluefish, grouper, trout and crevalle jack.

We were thrilled to be ­visited by a manatee gently nudging our boat.

But nothing prepared us for the sight of a whole “herd” of these shy sea cows as we returned from a dolphin-spotting sea trip off neighbouring Captiva.

You can’t really lose your way on Sanibel and Captiva as there is only one main road and getting back to the mainland is easy across the Sanibel Causeway.

As its name suggests, Fort Myers Beach, a 25-minute drive away, has an excellent beach, plus shops, restaurants and lots of activities.

Sanibel Harbour Resort and Spa is great if you want the best of both worlds – it’s near the ­islands but also accessible to Fort Myers itself.

I particularly loved the fact that the Tanger Outlet mall was just minutes down the road for great shopping. It’s also a short car journey to Shell Point Golf Course, a typical American-style course with water in play on almost every hole.

The Edison & Ford Winter Estates in Fort Myers are well worth visiting. Close friends Thomas Edison and Henry Ford spent the winter months there in the 1930s and their homes and workshops have been kept just as they were.

So if you’re looking for a sunshine  Florida holiday off the tourist trail, Sanibel is a natural choice.